Tips For Growing African Nightcrawlers

african nightcrawlers

African nightcrawlers are extensive makers of worm castings, which are body squanders used to advance manures and soils for crop creation. African nightcrawlers need similar consideration as some other worm sort, requiring five major basics: legitimate sheet material, worm feedstock, dampness, air circulation and controlled temperature.

Drill 20 to 50 eighth-inch openings around the best 4 creeps of every 5-gallon basin to give a lot of air circulation for raising african nightcrawlers. The openings likewise will permit you to stack the containers without slicing off oxygen to the worms, which inhale from the bedding through their skins.

Measure out 1 pound of peat greenery on a kitchen scale and put it in one of the 5-gallon containers. Sprinkle the peat greenery layer with 1 16 ounces of water. Permit the water to retain into the layer for around 15 minutes.

  • African nightcrawlers are bountiful makers of worm castings, which are body squanders used to enhance manures and soils for crop creation.
  • The openings additionally will permit you to stack the containers without slicing off oxygen to the worms, which inhale from the bedding through their skins.

Spot 10 African nightcrawlers on the clammy peat greenery layer and afterward add another 1-pound layer of peat greenery over the worms. Sprinkle this layer with another 16 ounces of water and permit it to assimilate for around 15 minutes. Rehash Steps 1 through 3 for the same number of cans as you have to contain the entirety of your worms.

Record the pounds of sheet material you put in each container so you can compute how much water to use for each can support cycle. Likewise record the quantity of worms in each pail to plan for adding the feedstock.

Give your worms a feedstock, either fertilizer or okara, on top of the bedding in each pail. Utilizing a perpetual dark marker, draw a flat imprint where the feedstock layer leans against the side of the container, and utilize this imprint to plot your worms’ pace of utilization. You by and large should give 1 cup of feedstock for every 20 worms in each pail. Sprinkle 1 qt. of water over the feedstock to begin its ingestion into the bedding.

  • Spot 10 African nightcrawlers on the sodden peat greenery layer and afterward add another 1-pound layer of peat greenery over the worms.
  • of water over the feedstock to begin its ingestion into the bedding.

Check the dampness level of your worms’ bedding in each can two times every week. The bedding should bunch together when you delicately press it in your clench hand. On the off chance that it doesn’t cluster, it’s an ideal opportunity to water. First check the feedstock level and if it’s low, fill it to the line you drew. Keep up that degree of feed reliably. At that point sprinkle on the top layer 1 16 ounces of water for each pound of sheet material you put in the can.


African nightcrawlers are sufficiently versatile to deal with temperatures from 38 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit. Get your worms in a spot far from more extraordinary temperatures for the most beneficial and most dynamic worms.


Never use feedstock that contains oils, oil or meats. These substances coat the skins of the worms, choking out them.

Temperature and Humidity in the Compost

Temperature and Humidity

Treating the soil is a natural cycle that is performed by microorganisms (growths, microbes, and so on..) And other bigger life forms (worms, little creepy crawlies, etc.).. The movement of the organizations, would bring the temperature of the material arriving at high qualities ought not surpass 65-70 ° C.

The cycle needs to perform three essential prerequisites: that the materials have a reasonable substance of wet and dry garbage, the blend has enough ventilation and that there is a sure measure of water during the beginning phases of the cycle.

On the off chance that these conditions ensure the cycle will begin regularly arriving at high temperatures from the start, at that point toward the finish of the cycle, room temperature.

It is essential to keep stickiness around 60% during the beginning phases of the cycle, since the creatures liable for decay of the materials require a specific water content for its movement.

During the fertilizing the soil cycle the temperature must be controlled. In the beginning phases of the cycle the temperature must arrive at values near 65 °C. Try not to surpass values more noteworthy in light of the fact that numerous creatures can pass on. To screen the temperature with a thermometer there a long cylinder (1 m) which tell the temperature inside. In the event that you don’t have a thermometer, we can put your hand to mention an immediate objective fact.

It is additionally important to control the stickiness so it doesn’t drop during the primary stage, 60%. This purpose of dampness resembles a wipe simply depleted.

Air circulation is accomplished by turning the material now and then. The landfill is performed when the temperature drops excessively low (under 30-40 ° C), so that once the landfill, the temperature goes up to qualities near 50-60 ° C. The more we turn further quicken the cycle, notwithstanding, turning each 15 or 30 days can be sufficient to deal with four to a half year.

How to Make Compost From Bagged Tree Leaves

Make Compost

Each garden plot contains many different trees and shrubs. And each of them sheds leaves in the fall. In addition, after harvesting, whole heaps of plant waste remain. What to do with all this wealth? Some gardeners just send them with the trash, some burn them. Both decisions are wrong. All these components can be used for composting. However, many find reasons not to start a lawsuit with its preparation. One of the reasons is the lack of space to build a pit or a piece of land for a heap. But it turns out that humus can be prepared in bags.

Before considering how to make leafy humus in bags, you should understand the general concepts.

Compost is an artificial fertilizer made from tree leaves and plant waste.

Pros and cons of leaf compost

What are the benefits of compost? It is difficult to answer this question in one sentence. To understand its importance in agriculture, you should list its main advantages.

  • the preparation of humus relieves the gardener from the problems of removing garden plant waste, as well as some food waste;
  • no cost required. All components are right under your feet in the garden area;
  • it is an environmentally friendly fertilizer that is saturated with micronutrients and humus;
  • after adding it to the soil, it becomes loose and air-permeable. In other words, the soil begins to “breathe”;
  • compost-saturated soil retains moisture well;
  • can function as mulch. If it is enough, then they can evenly cover a certain section of the garden. Its presence in the beds does not allow weeds to germinate and retains the moisture of the plant root system;
  • humus lying in the beds attracts birds, and sometimes hedgehogs, which rid plants of harmful insects or slugs;
  • beneficial bacteria and fungi multiply in it, which contribute to the decomposition of organic components. In it, worms are bred, which loosen the earth on the one hand, and on the other, can be used for fishing;
  • saves the gardener to look for a place for burning;
  • a natural product that saves the gardener from oversaturation of his site with all kinds of chemical fertilizers.

The disadvantages include:

  • some leaves with flat shapes are endowed with the property of caking with each other into a dense mass, which complicates the process of decay;
  • rapid evaporation of moisture. Water the compost frequently to ensure decomposition.

Having familiarized yourself with the advantages of compost, you can try to understand the technology of its production.

Technology for preparing leaf humus in bags

Fallen leaves of trees are the main component for manufacturing. It is recommended to prepare compost in the following sequence.

Selection and procurement of components

Cooking ingredients can include foliage, grass cuttings, small tree branches and other plant waste. The preparation technology is the same for all methods of its laying, including the preparation in bags.

Leaves can be harvested with a hand fan rake. This rake does not damage the stems and roots of plants. Where there are no shrubs and trees, it is better to collect foliage with a lawn fan rake. Garden vacuum cleaners are widely used for collection.

They can operate in suction and blow mode. When working in the suction mode, the leaves are drawn by the vacuum cleaner into a special collection that is included in the vacuum cleaner kit. In blowing mode, leaves can be collected in separate piles. The advantage of the vacuum cleaner is that before sending the leaves to the collection, it crushes it. Finally, if leaves need to be picked from large lawns, it is best to use a lawn mower.

Avid gardeners buy their own lawn mowers or vacuum cleaners. These mechanisms are very beneficial because they grind the food and collect it in special collections, consisting of a bag or basket. This frees the gardener from the physical labor of transferring to a specific place.


The leaves must be shredded before composting. If they are collected with a vacuum cleaner or lawn mower, then they are already crushed. If the leaves are harvested in another way, then a special leaf shredder called a mulcher can be used to grind them.

Composting material

The collected and crushed foliage is laid in places where the compost will mature. This can be a pit, a fenced-in compost heap, or free-standing bins or heavy-duty plastic bags.

The collected leaves are placed in the selected containers and lightly tamped.

Before you start laying the future humus in a bag, a layer from the top of the soil should be laid on its bottom. The bag is then filled with other components.

To speed up the decay process, there must be enough moisture inside the bag. In addition, moisture must be maintained throughout the entire ripening period. Given these circumstances, the plastic bags should not be tied but left open. If autumn or spring is too dry, it is recommended to moisten the leaves inside the bag with water.

Garden compost bags can be purchased at any gardening store. They must necessarily be black and dense.

You cannot use as components for a bookmark:

  • remains from animals: droppings, small bones and other meat waste;
  • use freshly cut and perennial weeds, as well as the remnants of the root system of plants;
  • waste of diseased plants;
  • fresh manure;
  • waste containing toxic substances and toxins.

Adding nitrogen

It is recommended to add nitrogen-rich plants to the bag to speed up decay. Such plants include lawn grass, nettles, comfrey and others. If, after the lapse of time, signs of decay do not appear in the compost, then nitrogen biological products should be added to its composition.


The compost prepared in this way is left in open maturation bags.

The decay time can be from 1 to 2 years, depending on weather conditions.

To create uniform conditions for decay, it is recommended to mix the compost several times during maturation.

Production attachments

Manufacturers have set up many composting devices. However, their use is beneficial only on large farms. In such organizations, composts are produced in large volumes, and the use of small equipment is not rational.

For the preparation of humus in individual summer cottages, as well as in cramped conditions, it is enough to use those devices that have already been recalled in this article.

Such devices include:

  • fan and lawn rakes – they are intended for collection;
  • garden vacuum cleaners and lawn mowers – used for collection and shredding;
  • mulchers – intended for shredding.

Most gardeners know that the soil depletes over time, which means that you should not expect a good harvest on such lands. Therefore, soil fertility should be increased annually. It will take several years to improve the soil.

Thus, compost in bags will save every gardener money and will maintain soil fertility every year.

How to Compost in Small Spaces

Compost in Small Spaces

For a sound and safe food gracefully, for a spotless and supportable condition, for an agreeable and compensating experience.

Have you generally needed to compost however have been anxious about earthy colored green proportions or apprehensive about turning your fertilizer heap? Or then again perhaps you’re in a urban territory.

We have a technique for fertilizing the soil that is most likely ideal for you.

The Bokashi strategy is a Japanese procedure utilized with anaerobic aging.

Customary fertilizing the soil is a high-impact measure, which means it needs oxygen.

That is the reason you have to turn the heap.

Maturation is an anaerobic cycle significance to ward the air off hence no heap turning and the key to this is EM or compelling microorganisms.

This blend of lactic corrosive, yeast and phototrophic microscopic organisms was culminated by specialist Teruo Higa, a teacher of Horticulture at the University of the Ryukyus in Okinawa.

This Bokashi fertilizing the soil unit has all that you have to begin treating the soil.

It contains a sealed shut pail with a spout for depleting of the Bokashi tea and a pack of the Bokashi starter.

You can arrange single sacks of the starter also.

To begin simply include a layer of around three inches a food scraps to the can.

Ensure and cleave up any huge pieces before including. with Bokashi treating the soil you can even include meat, cheddar and little bones.

Keep layering and including the starter.

Sprinkle the top layer with starter and mix to cover the food.

Be liberal with the starter in case you’re fertilizing the soil extreme nourishments like meat, bones and espresso beans.

Regularly you would utilize 33% of a sack for each full can. Spot a plate or some other level article on top to ensure that air doesn’t get to the aging pieces.

At that point put the top on firmly. Ensure it’s fixed. At regular intervals open the spout and channel off the Rich Bokashi tea.

Weaken this at a pace of 1 tablespoon to one gallon of water and use it on your home plants and in the nursery. Rehash this cycle until your pail is full and afterward put it in a safe spot for around fourteen days to additionally age.

I like having two containers going at once with the goal that I don’t need to stop and pause. Try not to include water on the grounds that unreasonable fluid can make the blend decay. Additionally you need to keep your pail out of the sun. At the point when the basin is prepared the food won’t generally look that changed yet it will have a prepared pickle smell and perhaps some white development on the top.

These are generally acceptable signs. On the off chance that it smells foul, something turned out badly and you’re going to need to either include more starter or toss it out and start from the very beginning. This one scents great.

After the fourteen days did a 12-inch channel.

Channel off the tea, at that point cover the Bokashi.

In the event that you live in a provincial territory you may need to cover it somewhat more profound. wash the pail altogether and afterward you’re prepared to rehash the cycle. Following fourteen days the Bokashi will be separated much farther and afterward you can plant whatever plants you’d like right on top.

On the off chance that you developing in holders you can utilize your Bokashi by filling a compartment 33% of the path with fertilized soil.

Fill it another third with Bokashi.

Combine them altogether and top with the last third gardening soil.

Spread with plastic to empower and anaerobic condition.

Hold up about fourteen days and afterward plant. You can likewise add your Bokashi to your normal vigorous manure heap.

For more data look at the book “Bokashi Composting” and develop natural forever.